The Closet Coach

The amazing blazer set on Polyvore

In a recent edition of Ask the Closet Coach, I answered a reader question about the best blazer styles for the pear shape.

This week, let’s talk about how to choose and find a jacket that looks amazing on you, regardless of your body silhouette.

How to choose and buy an amazing blazer

• Fit. The key to any garment looking fantastic on you is fit, fit, fit. You can find the most flattering cut, but if the fit is sloppy, your effort is wasted. Your goal is for it to be snug overall and smooth to the body without being too tight. Here’s what to watch out for:
• Shoulders. The seam should end at the edge of your shoulder, not before it and not over it. You should be able to move your arms comfortably over your head.
• Sleeves. A full-length sleeve should not extend past the top of your hand, nor should it be above your wrist bones.
• Back. You want the blazer to fit smoothly across the back with no wrinkling.
• Bust. You should be able to button up your jacket easily with no pulling or gaping. If there are darts in the bust, they should fit smoothly across the bosom.
• Fabric. The best jackets are made of wool (including cashmere, gabardine and flannel), silk, or even cotton. A level below that are the fabric blends, followed by synthetics, like polyester.
• Quality. Look for a full smooth lining, ideally of silk. The stitches should be small, even and strong with no loose threads.

When it comes to the last two–fabric and quality–buy the best you can afford. A good blazer should hang in your closet for years to come. One really well made one is a far better value than two or three cheap versions.

If you’re not sure how to recognize a high quality jacket, take a field trip to a high-end department store, like Lord & Taylor, and browse the career or even designer departments. Notice how these jackets are made. Feel the fabrics. Look at the lining and craftsmanship. Your goal is to come as close to this as your wallet will allow!

By the way, you’ll notice I didn’t mention size. The number in the label is irrelevant if the fit is perfect. Cut it out if it’s a number that bothers you.

And what if you can’t find the perfect fit off the rack? This is where your tailor is, once again, your best friend.

Find a jacket that fits your largest part–most likely your shoulders, but possibly your hips or even your bust. Then have your tailor alter rest to fit you. The result will be like having your own little bit of custom couture. (Note that alterations to the shoulders are the most expensive; if your shoulders are narrower than your bust or hips, look for a style that fits the shoulder but falls more loosely on the rest of the body, like a swing or trapeze shape, or a cut that’s shorter.)

Finally, give yourself time. You probably won’t find this magical jacket on your first shopping trip or maybe even your second or third, and you want to try everything on. Just remember your new perfect blazer will be one of your wardrobe’s best friends and sometimes friends can take a while to find!

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1. Ask the Closet Coach: How to buy a black blazer for the pear shape
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