Ask the Closet Coach - The Closet Coach

Dec 6, 2011 0

Ask the Closet Coach: What’s the best T-shirt for my body shape?

A staple of every woman’s closet, from the most casual to the most chic, T-shirts are comfortable, easy to wear and work in a variety of outfit levels.

Now you’d think that a T-shirt is so basic you wouldn’t have to pay too much attention to how it fits and flatters your particular body shape.

But neckline, fit, length, sleeve type and even color can all vary and some will look better on you than others.

(And by the way, we’re talking about closet staple T-shirts. That means knit shirts in solid colors or simple patterns, like stripes. It doesn’t mean T-shirts with elaborate graphic patterns or “I’m With Stupid” written across the front.)

Here are some tips to keep in mind.

Finding the best T-shirt for your body shape

Make sure it fits! Begone, baggy men’s size XL shirts. (Unless you’re gardening or kick-boxing.) For most styles, you want your T-shirt, or any other knit shirt, to fit smoothly and snugly–but not skin-tight. Women’s styles are cut with a slight flare in the waist, unlike boxy men’s styles. Even if you choose a looser silhouette, it should never look like you’re mistakenly wearing a man’s shirt.
Check the length. If you’re petite, does it drape too low? If you’re tall, does it cut off awkwardly at the waist? Think about what you’ll be wearing it with. If you’re going to tuck it in, make sure there’s enough length so it won’t constantly slip out of your waistband.
Look at the neckline. A standard crew neck is most common, but is less flattering for busty figures. A V-neck or scoop neck elongates your line and is flattering to most. If you’re narrow-shouldered, a boat neck will widen them–and also balance a pear-shaped figure.
What about the sleeves? Cap sleeves are the most difficult to wear as they cut just above your bicep, the widest part of your upper arm; not so flattering, unless you’re super toned and/or Madonna. You’re much better off with a length somewhere closer to your elbow.
Consider a pattern. Not all T-shirts have to be solid colors. Horizontal stripes are helpful to small-chested gals, particularly if they run across the top of the bust.

If you’re not sure which of these options work best for you? Try them all on! Let your mirror be your guide.

Get a scoop-neck T and a crew neck T, ideally both in the same fabric and color, and try them on. Your eye will tell you which one works best.

Still not sure? Ask a friend. (The one who’s honest, but gentle!)

What to buy

French Connection striped t shirt
$50 - usa.frenchconnection.com

All Saints boyfriend t shirt
$50 - allsaints.com

Slubby triped t shirt
$40 - topshop.com

J Crew boatneck tee
$20 - jcrew.com

Gap dolman sleeve jersey tee
$20 - gap.com

What’s the Scoopneck top
$13 - modcloth.com

Essential v-neck tee
$9.99 - tillys.com

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Sep 27, 2011 2

Ask the Closet Coach: How to wear an Hermès scarf

Foulard 101: Two Twists on a Classic

A reader writes, “I found a bunch of funky scarves with graphic prints, and I also have a gorgeous Hermes scarf that I never wear. How and when do I accessorize with scarves? (Mine are either large square, or long rectangular in shape).”An unworn Hermès scarf? Quelle horreur! Let’s correct this unfortunate situation, shall we?

There are three elements to accessorizing with a scarf:

where to wear it on the body
what garments to wear it with
how to tie it

Where to wear a scarf

I’ll admit that even though I’m a scarf wearing type of gal myself, I tend to do the expected and wear it around my neck. But there are lots of other ways to wear a scarf!

Around your neck. The obvious, but perhaps easiest.
On the head. Either as a full head-covering scarf (large sunglasses and convertible optional) or folded into a headband.
At the waist. Try a long one (or two long ones tied together) as a belt, or slipped through two belt loops and tied together.
Anywhere else. What about around your wrist as a bracelet alternative? Around the crown of your summer straw hat? And every fashionista knows a colorful scarf looks great knotted around the strap of a solid leather handbag.

What to wear a scarf with

Anything! Really, they’re so easy to wear; why not have fun and experiment? Put a scarf with a T-shirt or a dress and either way, it’s instant chic. Here are some other garments to accessorize with a scarf:

A tailored blazer
A button-down or collared shirt
An open-necked top, like a boatneck or jewel neck
A V-neck sweater

How to tie a scarf

My favorite online tutorials are the super helpful videos from the très fabuleuse blogger of Une Femme d’Un Certain Âge (there’s one at the top of this post and you can find them all on her YouTube channel).

Finally, for little instruction cards of knotting styles, as well as suggested scarf locations, look no further than the House of Hermès itself: Knotting Cards.

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(Want to get more shopping tips and fun insider stuff? Join The Style List. It’s like a secret club in your email inbox! And when you join, you’ll get my free email series, 7 Days to Better Shopping. It’s my gift to you!)

Sep 13, 2011 2

Ask the Closet Coach: How to buy a black blazer for the pear shape

A reader writes to ask where she can find a good, all-purpose black blazer. You know the kind: you can wear it with jeans, to work, or on a date night.

My reader has a silhouette with narrow shoulders, so she especially needs a blazer that will balance out the widest part of her body, through the hips.

Blazer silhouettes that flatter the pear shape

So let’s start with that garment shape. First we want to add definition to the shoulders. The easiest way is with shoulder pads. Really. (Don’t worry, we’re not going to get all Alexis Carrington here–we’re talking light padding.)

And make sure the jacket fits here perfectly. The end of the shoulder seam should align with the end of your shoulder bone. In fact, a wardrobe staple like this one is worth tailoring to fit if needed.

Draw the eye upward with detailing around the collar. Or try a statement necklace or sassy scarf!

The jacket should also taper in at the waist, to emphasize your narrowest area and further create an hourglass shape balancing top and bottom. A boxy cut will just make you look bigger.

And watch out for pockets on the hips; square ones can add bulk while angled ones can be more flattering.

Finally, make sure the length is right: you don’t want the bottom of the jacket to end at the widest part of your body, which is most likely your bottom or your thighs. Look for one of two lengths: at or just above your hipbones (best if you are petite), or fingertip length.

7 black blazers for the pear shape

Here are 7 options for an all-purpose black blazer, in price points from Target to Platinum Card.

Target Mossimo Women’s Fitted Blazer. A good, basic blazer in cotton. At this price, it’s good as a starter item or a backup. (Target.com, $30)
LOFT Cetta Jacket. A better quality item, with peplum gathering in the back hem for a little more definition in the waist. (LOFT, $89.50, on sale for $59.99)
The Limited Seam Pocket Jacket. In a polyester blend, this jacket should drape nicely and the front pockets are tucked into a seam. (The Limited, $138)
Alice + Olivia Structured Leather Panel Blazer. I love the leather detailing and the unusual hemline. This is not your mama’s black blazer. (Alice + Olivia at Neiman Marcus Last Call, $173, marked down from $495)
Ann Taylor Tropical Wool Stand Collar Jacket. Here’s a sleek equestrian-inspired silhouette with flattering seaming and a stand collar in wool. (Ann Taylor, $228)
Ralph Lauren Devinne Wool Jacket. I like the subtle pinstriping in this jacket; it’s as versatile as a solid black blazer but with a little more visual interest. With a 30” hem length, this is best for taller women. (Ralph Lauren, $270)
Reiss Ameris Jacket. This military-inspired jacket draws the eye upward with epaulets at the shoulder. It does have hip pockets, so you’ll want to try it on to see if it works on your body. (Reiss, $325, on sale for $162)

[Disclosure: Some links are affiliate links.]

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Jul 5, 2011 0

Ask the Closet Coach: How do I update my wardrobe while losing weight?

Reader L.M. writes, “I’ve lost a lot of weight but I’m still planning to lose more. I’m afraid to buy new clothes now since I’ll (hopefully) just have to turn around and buy more clothes later. In the meantime, I feel frumpy in my baggy clothes. What should I do?”

First of all, congratulations! Losing weight isn’t just about looking better, of course, it’s about feeling better and becoming a healthier you.

You’re right; it wouldn’t be practical to replace your entire wardrobe yet if you’re planning to continue losing weight. But that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy new clothes on your new body right now.

Weight loss isn’t an overnight process, so why wait until the end to reward yourself for your hard work?

Wearing a few things in a smaller size will also remind you of the success you’ve had so far and inspire you for the journey still to come.

Here’s what you can do right now to update your wardrobe.

How to update your wardrobe while losing weight

Flaunt a smaller waistline with a new pair of jeans. They don’t have to be expensive to be cute and flattering; you can find on-trend styles at mainstream chains like Old Navy and J Jill. And don’t forget your local thrift stores.
Show off your toned legs with a skirt. Have you been giving your gams a workout? Let it show! Look for easy, budget-priced options at stores like H&M or websites like Asos. An A-line skirt that hits just above the knee reveals the narrowest part of your leg while also making your waist appear even smaller.
Reveal your strong arms. Always covered them up before? Now’s your chance to try some shorter sleeved or even sleeveless styles. Unleash your inner Michelle Obama!
Have fun with accessories. If you really want to minimize your expenditures, stick to accessories. Belts in particular are a great way to emphasize your ever-shrinking middle; look for designs that can be cinched in to varying degrees so they can adapt to a smaller waistline.

And if you ask me, any happy milestone–like weight loss–is an excellent excuse for a pair of new shoes!

You be the Coach

What are your suggestions for adapting a wardrobe during weight loss?

[Flickr Creative Commons photo: Charlotte Astrid]

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Jun 28, 2011 5

Ask the Closet Coach: What is age appropriate for a fit 35-year-old?

Did I hear someone say "no miniskirts after 35?" Bwa ha ha!

Rosa, 35, has the lucky dilemma of looking younger than her age and being fit. She wants to know how she can show off her physique while also looking age-appropriate: “Is it stylish and OK for me to still wear miniskirts?”

Ah, the old “no miniskirts after 35” dilemma.

(And why is it always that particular item of clothing we’re most concerned about? Discuss.)

“What Not To Wear” holds to a firm cutoff, while Susan of The Working Closet makes a successful case for rocking a miniskirt after 40. (And so does Elissa of Dress with Courage, who also happens to be this month’s Site Spotlight blogger.)

If you have a fit, slender silhouette that’s flattered by figure-hugging clothes, then by all means don’t drape yourself in baggy pants and cardigans. But that doesn’t mean you should look like you’ve been shrink-wrapped, either.

One of the keys for dressing age appropriately, as Susan points out, is proportion and balance.

Shorter skirt with flats and greater coverage above the waist, particularly by more conservative garments? Yes
Shorter skirt with 4-inch platform heels and spaghetti-strap tank top? Not so much.

The other key to age appropriateness–at any age–is fit.

Does it fit your body? Skin-tight is vulgar; extremely well tailored is flattering and discreetly sexy.
Does it fit your lifestyle? Even if you can pull off a tiny skirt, for example, would you be the only one in your peer group–or your office–doing so? Context is everything; use your best judgement to know whether your clothing choices will make you stand out, or stick out. (As in of the sore thumb variety.)
Does it fit your closet? If you can’t make a piece work with the items you already own, then it’s not a garment for you, whether it’s the trendiest, youngest thing around or the simplest and most conservative.

For more tips, I’ve talked before about dressing gracefully for your age and Sally of Already Pretty has a great list of Loose Style Guidelines for Women Over 40.

Good luck, Rosa, and have fun!

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The Closet Coach

Ask the Closet Coach: What’s the best T-shirt for my body shape?