The Closet Coach

Last fall, I answered a reader question about buying a black blazer for the pear shape–sometimes also known as the triangle because this body silhouette is wider at the bottom (hips) and narrower at the top (shoulders).

Since everyone should own at least one wonderful, fitted blazer let’s turn our attention now to the opposite of the pear/triangle–the inverted triangle, sometimes called the apple. (Can you guess what this shape looks like? Yep: wide of shoulder and slimmer of hip.)

So here are tips to help you buy a blazer for the inverted triangle shape (apple).

Not too surprisingly, they are mostly the opposite of the tips for buying a blazer for the triangle.

As with all garment-shopping, the goal is to balance out the silhouette by making wider parts appear narrower, and narrower ones a bit wider–this tricks the eye into seeing an hourglass, the ideal balance.

• Avoid padded shoulders. Well, this one’s a bit obvious, isn’t it? Even so, it can be tricky advice to follow since many tailored jackets pad the shoulders.
• Lengthen the torso. The longer your torso looks, the narrower your shoulders will appear in comparison. Stick to one or two-button jackets with a deeper yoke. Make sure it’s a longer length (i.e. below your waist)
• Keep lapels narrow. Ideally, they should also point downward, away from the shoulder. This is another way to accomplish tip #2, torso lengthening.
• Double-breasted jackets are not your friend. Remember, you want a deep yoke with narrow lapels; double-breasted is pretty much the opposite of that.
• After you buy it, tailor it. Off the rack, chances are high that your jacket still won’t fit your torso the way it should. You’re lucky, Ms. Triangle, because the shoulders are the hardest part to alter on a jacket. Find one that fits the width of your shoulders and the rest can be taken in to fit.

Although you’d think that a fitted blazer would emphasize how your waist is narrower than your shoulders, in fact it’s more flattering because it will also emphasize your hips, making you look more balanced overall. A boxy cut simply makes you look wide all over.

Want to know how to style that blazer once you buy it? Here’s how to use your blazer to create working mom outfits at levels for Weekend Chic, Casual Friday and Client Meeting.

What to buy

Share the love

Thanks for reading. Did you like this post? Please leave a comment or share it with someone else; just use the handy sharing widget below.

(Want to get more shopping tips and fun insider stuff? Join The Style List. It’s like a secret club in your email inbox! And when you join, you’ll get my free email series, 7 Days to Better Shopping. It’s my gift to you!)

The amazing blazer set on Polyvore

In a recent edition of Ask the Closet Coach, I answered a reader question about the best blazer styles for the pear shape.

This week, let’s talk about how to choose and find a jacket that looks amazing on you, regardless of your body silhouette.

How to choose and buy an amazing blazer

• Fit. The key to any garment looking fantastic on you is fit, fit, fit. You can find the most flattering cut, but if the fit is sloppy, your effort is wasted. Your goal is for it to be snug overall and smooth to the body without being too tight. Here’s what to watch out for:
• Shoulders. The seam should end at the edge of your shoulder, not before it and not over it. You should be able to move your arms comfortably over your head.
• Sleeves. A full-length sleeve should not extend past the top of your hand, nor should it be above your wrist bones.
• Back. You want the blazer to fit smoothly across the back with no wrinkling.
• Bust. You should be able to button up your jacket easily with no pulling or gaping. If there are darts in the bust, they should fit smoothly across the bosom.
• Fabric. The best jackets are made of wool (including cashmere, gabardine and flannel), silk, or even cotton. A level below that are the fabric blends, followed by synthetics, like polyester.
• Quality. Look for a full smooth lining, ideally of silk. The stitches should be small, even and strong with no loose threads.

When it comes to the last two–fabric and quality–buy the best you can afford. A good blazer should hang in your closet for years to come. One really well made one is a far better value than two or three cheap versions.

If you’re not sure how to recognize a high quality jacket, take a field trip to a high-end department store, like Lord & Taylor, and browse the career or even designer departments. Notice how these jackets are made. Feel the fabrics. Look at the lining and craftsmanship. Your goal is to come as close to this as your wallet will allow!

By the way, you’ll notice I didn’t mention size. The number in the label is irrelevant if the fit is perfect. Cut it out if it’s a number that bothers you.

And what if you can’t find the perfect fit off the rack? This is where your tailor is, once again, your best friend.

Find a jacket that fits your largest part–most likely your shoulders, but possibly your hips or even your bust. Then have your tailor alter rest to fit you. The result will be like having your own little bit of custom couture. (Note that alterations to the shoulders are the most expensive; if your shoulders are narrower than your bust or hips, look for a style that fits the shoulder but falls more loosely on the rest of the body, like a swing or trapeze shape, or a cut that’s shorter.)

Finally, give yourself time. You probably won’t find this magical jacket on your first shopping trip or maybe even your second or third, and you want to try everything on. Just remember your new perfect blazer will be one of your wardrobe’s best friends and sometimes friends can take a while to find!

Share the love

Thanks for reading. Did you like this post? Please leave a comment or share it with someone else; just use the handy sharing widget below.

(Want to get more shopping tips and fun insider stuff? Join The Style List. It’s like a secret club in your email inbox! And when you join, you’ll get my free email series, 7 Days to Better Shopping. It’s my gift to you!)